Here's all of what Dick Metcalf had to say
about CorrosionX in his "Worth A Look"
column in Shooting Times: I
sometimes think there are more different kinds of
firearms lubes and rust-prevention compounds on
the market these days than there are guns.
However, I have recently become a believer in one
particular item and have begun using it
exclusively. The product is CorrosionX.
As a corrosion inhibitor, CorrosionX polar bonds
to metal (water beads on it like car wax),
prevents rust from starting even with extended
exposure to rain, and withstands extreme handling
abuse. It repels moisture with the thinnest of
coats. I've rubbed hard with a salt-sweaty thumb
on a barrel wiped down with CorrosionX and
moisture still beads. And its polar-bonding
effect works to prevent existing rust from
progressing - spray it on a gun where rust specks
have already begun, and it'll stop it cold.
As a lubricant, CorrosionX offers a lower
coefficient of friction than even PTFE-fortified
products ( the Teflon, semiteflon, and other
polymer-bead compounds). Plus, since it's
specifically designed for high-temperature(s), it
doesn't burn off or sublimate away during hot-action
use. I recently used it to lube the yoke/crane
cylinder-rotation shafts of two .357 Magnum
revolvers during a 10,000-round endurance review,
where 500-round strings were standard. CorrosionX
worked longer and better than anything I've used
before. The cylinder/yoke areas would get too hot
to touch, but the lube did not dry up and was
visibly still "moist" when I pulled off
the cylinder.
As a penetrating agent, CorrosionX is remarkable.
The manufacturer reports incidents where its
application has freed the frozen actions of guns
that have laid for weeks in the soaking ruins of
building fires. That's pretty extreme.
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Here,s more from Chris Christian,s GUN WORLD
article on CorrosionX:
Unfortunately, (.22 rimfire semi-auto pistols)happen
to be one of the more difficult firearm designs
to keep functioning in a reliable manner. And the
same also applies to semi-auto rimfire rifles.
There are two major reasons for this, and they
really aren,t the fault of the gun.
The first is that the .22 Long Rifle cartridge (regardless
of who makes it, or how much it costs) is an
inherently dirty little rascal. It tends to spew
a significant amount of lead and powder residue
every time the trigger is pulled.
The second is that the rimfire semi-auto action
is rather small and confined. It doesn,t leave a
lot of room for this debris to settle in, nor can
it be blown out of the action as is the case
with centerfire semi-autos ŠCrud tends to
accumulate in a .22 rimfire, and when enough of
this crud accumulates, the gun tends to stop
shooting. That,s not a good thing to happen,
especially in the middle of a match, or if you
have just figured out the lead and sight picture
on a rapidly vacation varmint.
You can compound that problem quickly if you use
the wrong lubricant for the gun. Some otherwise
outstanding oils and lubes tend to hold powder
and lead residue, which builds up quickly and
leads to failure in as few as 50 to 100 rounds.
Other lubes, like Rem Oil or Tetra Gun, do not
allow firing residue to cling as tightly; if my
Ruger was properly cleaned and then lubed with
these, I could expect as many as 300 rounds ,give
or take, before the gun decided to take an
extended break in the middle of the action.
I believe I have found a better lube than that.
CorrosionX is a relatively new product using some
very high-tech ingredients. Those components
surface bond with metal, form a self-healing
shield and resist wearing extremely well.
To find out how CorrosionX might work with
rimfires, I took my Ruger Mark II target handgun,
stripped it, hosed it with carb cleaner and
thoroughly spray-lubed it with CorrosionX. I then
took a fresh 500-round brick of CCI Green Tag (an
excellent performing match load, but an outside
lead-lubricated round of the type that causes the
most sludge build up in many .22 rimfires) and
began firing them. This was not a torture test
... I engaged in normal precision practice (30 to
50 rounds per session, twice a week) for the next
six weeks.
The only maintenance on the gun during the six-week
period was to: (1) wipe the breech face with a
clean patch after each shooting session, and (2)
run one dry patch through the bore every 100
rounds. No additional lubrication, internally or
externally, was provided during the six-week
period.
After 10 years of shooting this gun in
competition, I have found that the very best
lubricants would allow 300 to 400 rounds of
reliable functioning before lubrication-related
malfunctions began to occur.
I finished the 500-round brick of Green Tag
without a single lubrication-related malfunction.
At the end of that brick, the gun was still
purring right along; I had a match the following
weekend, however, so I terminated the test and
cleaned and lubed the gun. I do not know how far
I would have been able to push that gun, but
after 500 rounds of lead match ammo, the action
was quite clean and the gun was still running
smoothly.
CorrosionX, obviously, does not trap firing
residue within the gun. It is superior to any
other lubricant I have ever used for .22-rimfire
actions. In fact, I was pretty much astonished at
its performance!
As a plus, CorrosionX does marvelous things to
the rust that seems to grow on my guns. My hands
will rust just about any metal they come in
contact with, and every handgun I own wears a
slight patina of rust on the front and back of
the grips. During the initial cleaning of the
Ruger Mark II, (blue steel) pistol, the
CorrosionX removed the patina from the grip area.
And, despite the fact that I applied no more
lubricant during the entire six-week test even in
the humid Florida climate I live in the patina
never returned. CorrosionX stopped that. And, it
stopped it on my other blue steel guns, as well.
This is, without a doubt, the best surface metal
protectant I have ever used!
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